Corrugations - Nail disorder - Horizontal wavy ridges caused by uneven growth due to illness or injuries. Furrows - Nail disorder - vertical lines down the nail plate caused by nutrition, injury or illness. Leuconchia - White spots on the nail caused by injury to the base of the nail Onychorrhexis - Split or brittle nails caused by injury, careless filing, vitamin deficiencies, illness, and frequent exposure to strong chemicals. Hang Nails - Caused by dry cuticle and carlessness in removing the cuticle Onychomycosis Unguium - Nail fungus caused by a parasite. very contagious Onychocryptosis - Ingrown nail caused by filing the nail too much, or tight fitting shoes. Verruca - Warts caused by infectious virus Onycholysis - lifting of the nail without shedding 5 Basic Nail Shapes - squoval, round, oval, pointed, square Toner - used on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors after decoloring Conditioning filler - protein conditioner that will equalize porosity and fill the holes Color filler - used to replace the missing primary colors Oxidative - Demi- permenant and permenant color Non-oxidative color - temporary - physical change only. Semi-permanent. Double process blonde - decolorizing and toning What affects lightener working time? - Melanin - the more there is the longer the process. Scalp processes faster because of body heat Lift - lightening by breaking up the melanin to decolorize hair Deposit - means that product only deposits color because it does not contain ammonia or high alkalinity necessary to lift developer - oxidizing agent H2O2 when mixed with ammonia it will break up the melanin and give ability to lift or lighten Semi-permanent color - non-oxidative, temporary color, stains cuticle, fades in each shampoo. Demi-permanent color - oxidative, deposit only, deepens or changes the tone Permanent color - lightens and deposits at the same time. more alkaline ingredients, penetrates the cortex, can't shampoo out Primary colors - Red, Blue, Yellow Brown - unequal combo of primary color Black - Equal parts of primary colors Warm tones - red, orange, yellow Cool tones - blue, green, violet Neutral tones - perfect combo of both cool and warm tones Eumelanin - Brown to black pigments Pheomelanin - Red to yellow pigments Coarse texture - largest diameter, greatest amount of melanin, processing time and lift is affected medium texture - has a balance of melanin, typically no problems Fine texture - smallest diameter, least amount of melanin, more susceptible to darker drabber results, more prone to damage Alkaline Wave - AKA cold waves - ammonium thioglycolate (thio and ammonia). ph - 9.0- 9.6, no tension, solution causes hair to swell, processes at RT Acid Wave - AKA heat waves- glycerol monothioglycolate. ph - 7.8-8.2. will require heat to speed processing Endothermic - required added heat source