Hard Water ✔✔Minerals that lessen the ability of the shampoo to lather Purified water/Deionized water ✔✔Main ingredient in shampoo Surfactant ✔✔has two ends the HYDROPHILIC HEAD and LIPOPHILIC TAIL Hydrophilic Head ✔✔Attracted to water Lipophilic Tail ✔✔Attracted to dirts and oils Acid Balanced Shampoo ✔✔pH of 4.5-5.5 Jheri Redding ✔✔first to introduce pH balanced shampoo in the 1960s Clarifying Shampoo ✔✔acidic base to cut through buildup on the hair strand Humectants ✔✔Most conditioners carry this. Promote retention of moisture Instant conditioners ✔✔remain on the hair 1-5 minutes Protein Conditoners ✔✔brown liquids and penetrate into the cortex to temporarily improve porosity and increase elasticity Infraed Lamps ✔✔may be used with hair treatments and scalp tonics for 5 minutes High Frequency Unit ✔✔used to normalize oily scalp conditioners! Also never should be used with tonics that contain alcohol Base Control ✔✔position of the rod in relation to its base section croquignole perm wrap ✔✔wrapped perpendicular to the scalp starting with the ends Spiral Perm Wrap ✔✔Wound from the ends to scalp and rods hang vertical Concave Rods ✔✔most common and have a smaller center circumference Straight Rods ✔✔uniform circumference Alkaline Permanent ✔✔softens and swell the hair which raises the cuticle. Developed in 1941 Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG) ✔✔main ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms Alkaline Waves ( COLD WAVES) ✔✔process at room temp Acid Perms ✔✔Main ingredient is glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG) Exothermic perms ✔✔reaction that causes heat. contains hydrogen peroxide Endothermic Perms ✔✔activated by outside heat source. True Acid perms are endothermic Disulfide Bonds ✔✔if too many are broken the hair will become over processed and have a weak curl What is the main ingredient in a neutralizer ✔✔Hydrogen Peroxide Do not shampoo hair ✔✔48 hours after a perm Cuticle ✔✔outer most layer of the hair Cortex ✔✔middle layer of the hair where all chemical processes take place Melanin ✔✔Natural pigment located in the cortex Peptide Bonds ✔✔called end bonds link together to form polypeptide chains. Should not be broken. What are the three side bonds? ✔✔Disulfide, Salt,Hydrogen, Side/Cross Disulfide Bonds ✔✔strognest. Must be broken when perming or relaxing the hair Salt bonds ✔✔Weak physical side bonds that are easily broken by changes in pH Hydrogen Bonds ✔✔broken by water or heat EX: Wet Set Hair Texture ✔✔Diameter of a single strand Hair Density ✔✔number of strands of hair are on the head Hair Porosity ✔✔Absorb mositure